Monday, 29 November 2010

Albatross encounters

Today (Tuesday), I took a boat trip from Kaikoura to view the albatrosses and other seabirds. In total, in the 2 hours, we saw 8 different species of albatross, including 3 Royal Albatross and 8 Wandering Albatross, 5 species of petrels, 4 species of shearwaters (including over 150 Hutton's Shearwater who nest in the surrounding mountains in burrows and are very rare) and a number of gulls and terns.  It was fantastic to be so close you could almost touch them as we fed them from the back of the boat.  One paid its thanks, however, by messing on me.....great!!!



Giant Petrels and albatross following boat

Young Black Browed albatross

to South Island

On Saturday, I took the early morning ferry from Wellington to Picton on the South Island, with the most stunning scenery through the Marlborough Sounds.



I arrived in Nelson at lunchtime and my host, Patrick, from the Nelson Tramping Club took me on a walk through the Brook Waimarama Sanctuary nearby.  Patrick is one of a number of volunteers who give up their spare time to help run the 715 ha reserve which aims to restore the area to native flora and fauna.  Patrick is one of the "track builders" and we followed one of the tracks soon to be opened to the public.  It is a stunning site and a credit to the volunteers who manage and monitor the site.  A website www.brooksanctuary.org gives lots more information.

On Sunday, Patrick and I met up with David Blunt, another member of the club, and we climbed Winter Peak (1750 m, 5740 ft) next to Mount Arthur in the Kahurangi National Park.  We climbed over 2000ft and did a total of around 15km.  Time and a lot of snow near the top of Mt Arthur were the only reasons we didn't do the latter!

David and I at the start:

View:

At the top:

Resident weka at Mt Arthur Hut

Today (Monday), I drove to Kaikoura for a couple of days' sightseeing.  The temperature has been about 24 degrees and the sea a fabulous colour.  I had a swim in the 33m outdoor pool:

and then had a walk along the beach and a track along the cliffs to see the seals and bird colonies.



Thursday, 25 November 2010

Kapiti and Capital

Catching up now that I have access to a computer again!!

On Monday, I drove to Takapau in Central Hawkes Bay to stay with some friends.  Karen and Richard are both vets so I spent Tuesday morning being a vet's assistant as Richard visited 3 local deer farms to do some work.  In the afternoon, I had a walk round the sheep and deer farm with Karen and then went for a swim in the local pool while one of the boys had his swimming lesson.

On Wednesday, I headed down to the Kapiti coast to Raumati South and stayed with Patrick, from Parawai Tramping Club, and his wife Ann.  Patrick and his daughter, Katy, took me on a couple of local walks along the beach and up above the town where we had gorgeous views of Kapiti Island.



That evening, I gave a presentation to the Parawai Club - about 25 people - which went well.  It was interesting to see that tehre are any similarities in, for example, finding walk leaders but they have actually got around this slightly by calling them "tramp organisers" who suss out the walk but who may not necessarily be expected to be experts in ALL aspects.  There may be people on the walk better able to use GPS or a map or whatever, and these skills are shared.

Thursday was my birthday and I was wakened by "Happy Birthday" texts from Peter, my husband back at home.  Patrick, Ann and Katy very kindly gave me a lovely present of a NZ walks calendar. 

Pat, Katy and I then went for a walk near Otaki Forks in the Tararura Forest Park and had lunch by the Otaki River in stunning scenery and lovely weather.



I then headed for Palmerston North where I stayed with David and Gaewyn from the Tramping Club.  4 of the club took me out for a birthday meal before I then gave a talk to about 12 people from the club.  Again, the issues of the differences in our access (the UK Rights of Way system versus the need to get landowners' permissions for access in NZ and the track and hut system) were discussed and fascinating in their comparisons.

Today (Friday), I am in Wellington and first of all met up with Wasantha Marasinghe from the Dept of Internal Affairs, who looks after the Churchill Fellowship in NZ.  We had a coffee and a chat and compared and contrasted the WCMT in the UK and NZ.  I am the first Churchill Fellow that Wasanthe has met from the UK!  I then took AGES to find my hotel in Wellington's one way system but eventually found it then did some sightseeing along the harbourfront.


Fun on a Friday!!

Te Pape Tongarewa (Museum of New Zealand)

Sunday, 21 November 2010

Wet on the Waitotora

I travelled to Wanganui on Friday from Taupo and my friend, Blue, suggested I go via the River Road by the Whanganui River as it was "much more scenic" than the main road.   Well, yes...it was...if you were able to look at the river below as you negotiated the gravel road!!!!  He had omitted to tell me that the road was mainly gravel - more like our forestry roads than a highway!!! Anyway, I made it to my hosts' farm eventually.

On Saturday morning,we met up with 5 members of Wanganui Tramping Club and drove an hour to the road end along the side of the Waitotora River.  We then split into two groups for the tramp - the "boys" were taking the hard route to Trains Hut - by climbing an uncut ridge and basically making their own path through the bush, while we 3 "girls" followed the track to the hut.  The boys had to first kayak across the river to start their route.

After seeing them off, we girls set off and it took us 4 hours to reach the hut, negotiating swing bridges and narrow tracks along the bluff edge along the way.


Once at the hut,we drank tea and waited for the boys. 


We dunked our hot feet in the pool by the waterfall (that's me on the right below)


 The boys arrived 4 hours later...just as we were serving up our supper...as I had predicted earlier they would!!!

After spending the night in the hut,we started back...in pouring rain!  For only the 2nd time so far, I donned the waterproofs but, within an hour, the sun came out and the weather warmed up as we retraced the track back to the van and an hour's drive to the ice cream shop.

I found it interesting on the walk that they face some of the same access issues that we do.  At the end of the track, the landowner has erected a fence but has put a tiny gate in for access but, about 20m on, has dug a huge culvert, so preventing any vehicular access along what is a "public road".  The tramping club has taken up the case with the local council.

As with some of the other clubs I have met, the club does not offer any training to its members, but many have done Search and Rescue training for their own interest.  S and R is essential in the thick bush of NZ!!!

Wednesday, 17 November 2010

Recovery day

Today (Thursday - yes I know my computer is still on UK time and the blog posting days are not matching but never mind!), I had an easy day to recover from yesterday and did the touristy things around Taupo including a trip to Huka Falls, Craters of the Moon Geothermal area and Taupo Botanic Gardens.



Off to Wanganui tomorrow for a weekend trip with Wanganui Trampers.

hot, hot, hot

On Wednesday, I fulfilled an ambition and did the Tongariro Alpine Crossing - the "best one day walk in New Zealand" with Taupo Trampers.  To be absolutely accurate, we didn't actually do the whole crossing from end to end. To avoid the crowds on the main track, we struck off and went up Hardman's Ridge  to the top of Mount Tongariro where we had lunch, before walking round the rim of South Crater to Red Crater and on to the Highest point of the main Crossing to join the crowds!!  We then followed the main track back to our minibus.  The temperature was about 24 degrees and views were STUNNING.  While I may not have done the whole crossing, we did do 16km (the crossing distance is 19km) with a lot of height gain (to 1968 metres)and boulder clambering at the top.  A wonderful walk in wonderful conditions.

The map of the walk:


The group at the start:

 Me with Mt Ngauruhoe in the background
 The Emerald Lakes from the highest point on the crossing
 Me at the summit of Mt Tongariro
 View down to the South Crater

Monday, 15 November 2010

Birthdays and Batteries

I picked up my hire car on Saturday and drove from Auckland to Whangamata on the Coromandel Peninsula on the east coast of North Island. I have to agree with one lady I met who said it is “Paradise on Earth” - stunning beaches backed by mountains cloaked in forest - and the weather to match.


My hosts at my homestay in Whangamata – Ian and Ann – were absolutely lovely – so friendly and welcoming and made me feel at home from the moment I arrived...and this was made all the better by Ian inviting me to join him at the local school pool for a swim. 25 m, 7 lane heated outdoor pool with virtually no-one else in. Bliss!!


After an afternoon stroll along the fabulous beach where surfers and sunbathers were enjoying the warm, sunny weekend weather, I headed back to the homestay for a surprise birthday BBQ that Ann had laid on for Ian's 75th. He thought one or two friends were coming for a little soiree. Instead about 20 people turned up and it was a perfect excuse for Ian to get his guitar out and finish the evening with a singalong.




On Sunday, I met up with the Whangamata Ramblers. The group is just one of a number in Whangamata: the Whangamata Trampers, the Ramblers etc...each group doing different lengths and difficulty of walk.


After a photocall with my own gift of a Whangamata Ramblers T-shirt, we did a 5 hour walk up to the site of the Luck at Last gold mine outside Whangamata. Ivan, our leader, and Mel, the backmarker, took us past the remains of the mine and the surviving artefacts of an operation that lasted only 3 years from 1898-1901. A community of over 200 lived on the site and had their own hall, billiard room and school. Mine shaft entrances and the explosives store are still in place, as are many of the ironworks such as the quartz crushers and the cyanide baths used to separate the gold from the quartz rock. We ate lunch at the battery – the site of much of the final operation to extract the gold. Along the well marked track are points of interest such as Mel's new track, Peter's waterfall, The Soapbox, the Bus Stop and John's track. These are all named after the “track fairies” - 12 or so members of the club who spend every Monday clearing and maintaining the track in order that walkers and cyclists can enjoy them. In 2006, they had a HUGE job to tackle – a massive flood surge down the valley raised the water level 7 metres and washed out large sections of the track – some of which can never be reinstated – and we saw evidence of the damage and power of the water. I found the walk both interesting from an ecological point of view but even more so to hear the history behind the site from Mel and Ivan.





After the walk, Faye, one of the members, took me on a whistle stop tour of the environs of the town – to the dotterel protection area on the beach where we saw 2 chicks; then out to Onamana and to Oupetere beaches – truly paradises on earth – white sandy beaches and a turquoise sea.

On Sunday evening, we once again partied. The club had organised a pot luck supper at the house of one of the members and, again, I was made to feel very, very welcome.

Thursday, 11 November 2010

lazy day

Today was a lazy day to enjoy sightseeing in Auckland so I have been wandering around the harbour area gazing at the expensive yachts......and enjoying the hotel swimming pool....

Wednesday, 10 November 2010

"It never rains on Thursdays"

Had my first walk today- with the Womens Outdoor Pursuits Group (WOPS) - in the Waitakere Ranges...and it rained!  Hey, I thought I had left the bad weather behind in the UK!  There were about 25 of us on the walk which took us to the Waitakere Dam, where Auckland's water supply comes from and followed part of the Hillary Trail - named after Sir Edmund Hillary - and the Anderson Track.  (Most walking in NZ has to be done on marked tracks as there isn't the Public Rights of Way system as found in the UK and other parts of Europe). We had glimpses of the city through the karai trees and the bush as we followed the narrow track up and down hill, with tuis (birds) calling from the trees above.  The group were all very friendly and many have been walking in the UK or would very much like to and I felt very welcome.  It was a very sociable and relaxed day but everyone told me "It never rains on Thursdays" and reckoned I had brought the weather with me.   A great introduction to walking with clubs in NZ though.

The group with me 3rd from the right in the front row:

The dam and falls:

Tuesday, 9 November 2010

made it!!!

Well, I arrived in New Zealand a couple of days ago, via transit lounges in Dubai, Bangkok and Sydney.  The weather is glorious - 22 degrees here in Christchurch.  Am still suffering a bit from jet lag but am about to board a flight up to Auckland where I begin my tramping in earnest tomorrow with the Womens Outdoor Pursuits Club in the Waitekere Ranges about 2 hours out of Auckland.

Found a great B and B in Christchurch - this was the view from the bed...

Tuesday, 2 November 2010

4 days and counting

Well, 4 days to go before I fly off to New Zealand for my Churchill Fellowship looking at walk leadership and safety with tramping clubs the length and breadth of the two islands.  I am polishing up the presentations I am giving while I am over there and finalising accommodation.  I have had so many offers of accommodation from people I don't yet know but will get to know as I walk in New Zealand's fabulous scenery.    I am hoping for a wonderful Southern Hemisphere summer to enable me to take lots of fantastic piccies for the blog and my report, so fingers crossed.